Let the 15 day biketour begin!  Today marked the beginning our 15 day adventure around the lake Balaton and also of our two-day expedition around Kis-Balaton Lake, a place immortalized in Fekete István’s beloved novel Tüskevár (Thorn Castle). The story follows a 14-year-old boy who spends a transformative summer here, discovering the mysteries of nature, friendship, and adventure. Generations of Hungarians have grown up with both the novel and its famous film adaptation, and now, here we are—pedaling through the same landscapes that inspired them. 

Today’s ride turned out to be a proper adventure, complete with beautiful scenery, local flavors, and just enough tech trouble to keep things interesting.  We set out in the morning with the goal of visiting the Fekete István Memorial House, which sits like a quiet guardian of literary history. The ride there was pleasant, though the GPS seemed determined to add some “mystery” to our route — the biking app refused to load properly, and we had to rely on old-fashioned navigation skills and a fair bit of guesswork. 

We set off this morning from Balatonberény, ready for another stretch of our Balaton ride. The weather was already hot—32°C—and the lake shimmered in the sun. The road was smooth, but the strong front wind blowing from the lake made sure we earned every kilometer. Our first real pause was at Fonyód Marina, where we took in the sight of sailboats swaying lazily and enjoyed the shade. From there, we rolled along the lakeside pathway in Fonyód, a beautiful ride despite the wind, and continued on the Árpád part, with the lake always just beside us.

Today was… well, let’s just say it wasn’t our best day.

Last night, after fighting our way through what felt like millions of insects to reach our tents, I thought we’d finally get a peaceful night by the water. But apparently, the beautiful waterfront campsite comes with a catch: fishermen. Around 1:00 a.m., a group arrived for night fishing right on the pier near us. They were loud enough to keep us awake until sunrise, when they finally packed up and left. So, our day started with almost no sleep.

First of all, credit where it’s due: Rév Kemping in Szántód was hands down the best campsite so far. Quiet, comfortable, and right by the water—exactly what a bikepacker dreams of after a long day on the road.

Today, however, the heat wave hit us full force. By midday the temperature was pushing 38°C, and riding felt like cycling through a giant hair dryer. Because of the heat, we couldn’t do much—our “ride” became a slow, steady shuffle from shade to shade, with plenty of water breaks just to keep going. 

We started the day with a nice breakfast at Sóstó, enjoying a slow morning before heading off. Afterward, we explored the area a little and discovered a lovely educational path that gave us a glimpse into the local nature and history of Sóstó. It was a gentle and grounding start before getting back on the road.

Last night was restless with a big windstorm sweeping through the region. All night long I kept thinking heavy rain would fall on us, but in the end we were lucky—the rain passed us by. Later we learned that the storm had raged mostly around the Szeged area.

After breakfast we packed up and set off toward Balatonfüred. The ride today was smooth and truly enjoyable. The landscapes we passed were amazing, full of beautiful views and calm stretches by the lake. 

Today’s adventure was truly special—a beautiful blend of history, nature, and challenge. Our bike tour to Tihany may have been short in distance, but it was far from easy. Instead of following the regular bike track, we decided to take an off-road trail, which made the experience both more difficult and more rewarding.

Our first stop was the ruins of an old abbey church, standing quietly amidst the woods, a reminder of centuries past. 

Today was such a memorable day on our bike tour around the Balatonfüred area. We started off by taking an off-road trail that led us through vineyards and rolling hills toward the famous Lóczy Cave. The trail itself was the highlight of the day—dusty paths winding between grapevines, little forested stretches, and wide views over the lake. At one point, we even picked a few grapes straight from the vines—sweet, fresh, and full of summer flavor.

We woke up slow—painfully slow. Muscles stiff, heads heavy (especially me having a bad head ache) — getting going was like pushing through fog. Energy was flat; pedaling felt like torture. The sun hadn’t even risen, and already our legs weighed a ton. It’s obvious we’re entering what I call the impasse of the Biketouré—days blending, fatigue setting in, and the relentless heat sapping what little strength remains.

This morning we aimed to leave as early as possible, hoping to stay ahead of the rain. After packing up our things at Napfény Camping in the magical town of Révfülöp, our plan was to be on the road before 10 a.m. In the end, though, it was exactly around 10 when we finally set off.

Only a few kilometers into our ride, the rain caught up with us. At first it came gently, almost refreshing, but soon it thickened and forced us into our raincoats. Even so, we pushed on, pedaling steadily through the showers. We made a few short stops along the way, but the rain showed no sign of letting up.

Today was a day to remember. We set out on our bikes to explore the Badacsony wine region, one of Hungary’s most famous areas for vineyards and unique wines. Our route took us from the lakeside all the way up toward the hillside, giving us both breathtaking views and quite the workout. Along the way, we discovered countless vineyards and wineries, ranging from large, well-known estates to small, authentic family-owned ones. Our goal was to stop at places that felt genuine—and, most importantly, were accessible with bikes. That turned out to be a great approach, as it led us to some real gems.

Today’s stage of our Balaton bike tour took us from Badacsony to Balatongyörök. Our ride leader, Zsolt, decided to guide us on an alternative route instead of the official Balaton bike path. It turned out to be a road full of authentic Balatonian scenery – vineyards, small villages, and peaceful countryside views. While it was beautiful, it was also a demanding ride, and the accumulated tiredness started to weigh heavily on all of us. At the foot of Szigligeti Vár, I had a small accident. On a gravel stretch, I wasn’t paying enough attention, and with my tiredness catching up to me, my bike slipped out from under me. I landed on my right knee and hand. Thankfully, it’s nothing serious – no big bruise – but it still hurts now.